Week of Monday 8 December 2008 - Tasmania

Monday 8 December 2008 – Really early in the morning – 5.30am – Darryl coaxed me out of bed to ride the bike a few kilometres to the rocks. The ocean was quite pretty, and you could just see the Bass Strait Islands in the distance. 

Once again we took our time getting going, but eventually packed up and drove to the bottom end of the park to see the historic lighthouse, built in 1887 from local granite, and to wander around the huge rocks and rockpools. 

St Columba Falls were our next stop – the highest in Tasmania. These were spectacular falls, only a short, but pretty walk through rainforest, from the carpark. A narrow winding road led up to the next set of falls – 

Ralph’s Falls. Here there was a loop track which took us past Cashs Gorge, and through several different habitats. Coming back down the mountain, we had a near miss, as a red landcruiser lost it on the gravel coming around a corner towards us, forcing us off the road to avoid a collision. Darryl’s defensive driving skills are certainly good, as we stopped centimetres from the guide post, and suffered no damage, except jangled nerves. St Helens, a touristy fishing town was our stopping place for the night.

Tuesday 9 December 2008 – We took it easy driving South, and drove through St Marys rather than follow the coast, more due to roadworks than planning. This route took us through Mt Elephant pass, and we were looking forward to a lookout and view (especially as the signs seemed to indicate that there was one). Lunch was at Bicheno, and then we
checked out the beachfront campsites at The Friendly Beaches before continuing to Coles Bay. 

On the way we stopped for a tasty snack of garlic scallops at an oyster farm. We just got some photos of the impressive jagged granite Hazard Mountains before the rain started. The Freycinet National Park is just south of Coles Bay, so we set up early. There was just time for a quick walk along Richardson's Beach before the rain pelted down again.

Wednesday 10 December 2008
– We woke to an absolutely perfect day – the rain had
cleared during the night – and we rode our bikes the 3km to Parsons Bay carpark. Darryl walked to the top of Mt Amos, and we walked separately the lookout for Wineglass Bay.
On returning to camp I had swim in the crystal clear and beautiful waters of Coles Bay. Darryl followed suit when he also returned. It was just the most perfect day, with a cool breeze and lovely and warm in the sun. 

We watched the sun set over the bay – it was a lovely tranquil evening. Darryl cooked some more Chinese Sesame balls for supper – these are crispy glutinous rice balls, filled with sweet red bean paste, rolled in sesame seeds and deep fried – very yummy!
Thursday 11 December 2008
– Another perfect day, so we thought we would stay another day at Freycinet. Darryl rode to Cape Tourville to see the lighthouse and lookout. I followed part of the way, riding my bike to Sleepy Bay and walking down to the beach. 

There were plenty of interesting rock formations and huge kelp in the shallow waters. As I returned to the carpark, where I had left the bike, Darryl arrived back from the lighthouse, and we rode back together. If there was any downside to this lovely spot, it was that there were only cold showers available, and at around 2 in the afternoon, when the air temperature was at its warmest, I decided to brave it. I am glad that I did it then, as later the clouds came over, and it got very cold.

Friday 12 December 2008 – Well, at some stage we had to leave this lovely place – if we were  any more relaxed we would have melted into the sand, so we packed up, and drove, firstly on a 4x4 track to Bluestone Beach, and then to the Cape Tourville lighthouse, so I could see the view. We ten followed the Tasman Highway south, through Swansea and Triabuuna, where we enjoyed fresh flake and chips for lunch. 

At Orford we detoured down a gravel road from Wielangta Forest Drive. I would not really recommend this to anyone, as it was very dry, but the Three Thumbs Lookout gave good views of Maria Island, and the   
Rainforest Walk at Robertson’s Bridge was really special. The bridge itself is built from huge logs put together in the manner of a log cabin. The walk consisted of a boardwalk through the treeferns, and across the creek hen under a rock shelf. Although it was fairly dry, for a rainforest, it was still very lovely to experience. Further south we came onto the Tasman Peninsular. 

At Pirates Bay is the Tessellated Pavement, an amazing natural rock formation on the shore, which looks for all the world like someone laid a courtyard. There were starfish, and red anemone in the rockpools, and I found one of he pavement stones which had fossil shells in it. 

We were unable to go in to see the Blowhole (due to roadworks), but saw the Tasman Arch and Devil's Kitchen where the sea is eroding under the cliffs. 

We enjoyed delicious Berry Delights which were mixed local berries with cream and icecream. It was then on to Tasman National Park, where we camped at Mill Creek Camping ground, and enjoyed an entree of freshly cooked mussels. We then watched 2 seals frolicking in the clear waters of the bay before settling into the grass behind the sanddunes to wait for fairy penguins to come up on the beach. We sat quiet and still until around 10pm, but none came up. We thought we had a good spot as there was a rookery near, but it mustn't be in use at present.

Saturday 13 December 2008 – We woke to rain, but decided to stay another day as it was reasonably warm and sheltered here. Darryl had already been out walking, and looking for a spot to cast his line, for two hours, but after a hot cooked breakfast we walked the hour to Canoe Bay. The rain got heavier so we just went to bed and slept for the afternoon. At night Darryl baked bread but it took hours to cook as the wood did not make good coals.

Sunday 14 December 2008 – We drove north to the Coalmines. This is a historic site with ruins of the barracks, chapel, military barracks etc. The buildings were built of sandstone quarried from a nearby cliff. 

The main shaft of the mine was over 300 foot deep and was a honeycomb of tunnels, with an amazing air vent reinforced with sandstone blocks. The solitary confinement cells were tiny and dark and not at all attractive. Mining was finally abandoned here by convicts labour in 1848, but private concerns continued until 1877. We were a little sceptical about driving and then walking to the ‘air shaft’ as this really doesn’t sound impressive at all, but we were pleased that we did, as this was a monumental piece of work, being lined with large curved sandstone blocks. 

This road continued up to Lime Bay Conservation Park, and we camped the night. Darryl found more fresh mussels and we had them with rice for dinner. We also met a very nice couple, who had just done the west coast, Sal and Paul, and we swapped notes, and had a lovely evening around the fire.

Week of Monday 1 December 2008 - Melbourne - Tasmania

Monday 1 December 2008 – We were delighted to see a mother Koala, with a baby on her back climb out of a tree just behind where we were camped. 

Erskine Falls

We drove up to Teddy’s Lookout, for a birdseye view of the Highway. 











It was then back along the road a little to Sheoak Falls, which were actually quite disappointing. We had been planning to leave town then, but unfortunately the road was cut as during the early morning a fuel tanker had rolled, burst into flames and killed the driver. There was an alternative route, but we wanted to stay on ‘The Great Ocean Road’ so decided to drive to Erskine Falls, Victoria’s highest. We were not disappointed, as they were really lovely, although there were lots of steps to the bottom lookout (and of course, the same number coming back up again!). 

Although the road had been due to be reopened at 2pm, it wasn’t ready, so we waited in the car, went for fish and chips, and eventually were on the way at 5.30pm. We found a caravan park 9km from the city centre of Melbourne and settled in.

Tuesday 2 December 2008 – We travelled into the city by tram. We had to do some shopping, especially to get warm clothes. I spent $200 on a Montane jacket (it is extremely light, but waterproof and windproof – but I am still getting over the shock of spending so much on one piece of clothing!), and we bought merino wool thermals at Queen Victoria Markets. We went on the City circle tram tour, on an old tram, where they told us about city sights as we went around. 

Cooks Cottage

Cow in a Tree

Wednesday 3 December 2008 – Another tram into the Melbourne city centre for more shopping, and we looked at Cook's Cottage, Fitzroy gardens, the Victorian Museum (but ran out of time and didn't end up going in), and the Victoria State Library (where I did a little family history research). 

The ‘Spirit of Tasmania’ Ferry departed Melbourne at 8pm, so we put our car on early, and settled in to watch Melbourne disappear in our wake as the sun set. On the cruise we enjoyed a smorgasbord dinner, then Darryl went to the

theatre and watched a movie while I had a nap. He then woke me in time for both of us to head back to the theatre to see ‘Batman - The Black Knight’. We had a twin cabin, which I found comfortable, and slept soundly, but Darryl did not sleep as soundly.

Thursday 4 December 2008 – We got up early, at 5am, to go up on deck to see the ship sailing into Devonport. It was already quite light, and pretty cold, outside. It was around 7am when we docked, and we drove the car off ship, and stopped to collect our thoughts and plan next move. Wandering up the main street/mall of Devonport, reminded me of the Shetland Islands, very clean and crisp. We found AutoPro, to get a replacement torch (we had lost the other at Lorne), and went shopping. Prices were very comparable to mainland except for eggs, bananas and avocados. Our first destination was Port Sorell but there was not much there, so we went on to Narawntapu National Park – a river estuary behind ocean.

We set up camp and I slept while Darryl went for an investigation of the area. A Superb Blue Fairy Wren and his wife came to visit the campsite. We had a campfire, and a Pademelon came quietly by. After dark, a spotlight walk along beach and track, revealed a possum mum and baby.

Friday 5 December 2008 – When we

woke up it had been raining through the night and was still doing so, so we stayed in bed until 10.30am! Finally we got out, fixed up the site to stay another night, and after a hot cooked lunch, Darryl rode the bike back to the office to pay. Darryl decided to make Chinese Sesame Seed/Balls in the afternoon, and they were delicious.

He then suggested we both ride back to the Information Hut area as there was a walk there. Within a few minutes I spotted a wombat, and got some good shots of it at the entrance to the burrow, and the exit. Further on were grazing Bennetts Wallabies, and Pademelons, and it wasn't long before we saw many more wombats.

That night Darryl cooked more of his bread over the campfire. The lovely smell attracted the Pademelon and a couple of possums, one with a baby on is back. In the night they got the lid of the stainless steel billy and drank most of the oil left over from the sesame seed balls.

Saturday 6 December 2008 – We drove down the West Tamar Highway, there were beautiful green valleys, and an excellent lookout over the valley. Closer to Launceston was Tamar Island Wetlands, a waterbird Conservation Park, and we walked on the boardwalk over to the Islands. There was a really cold wind howling up the Tamar. In the middle of Launceston itself, is Cataract Gorge. We climbed to lookouts, and on the way down from one I spotted a russet coloured echidna. 

There is a swing bridge across the gorge (and a chair-lift for those who would rather pay than walk). We took a track up the side of the gorge, it eventually led to a historic powerplant, but we decided not to go all the way, as we still had shopping to do, and some way to our daily destination.

 It rained quite heavily as we drove up the East Tamar Highway, but we were still able to admire the countryside. At the mouth of the Tamar Inlet is George Town which purports to be the oldest settlement in Australia dating to 1804. The town really had nothing to offer us, so next stop was Bridport, which had a lovely sandy beach and crystal blue water. This town was very clean and pretty, but we went South and inland to Scottsdale, to a beautiful park which had free camping.

Sunday 7 December 2008 - About 12km from Scottsdale is the parking spot for Cuckoo Falls. The walk sign said it was a 3 hour return walk, and of course we did it in less, even accounting for obstacles, like fallen trees, and having to clear the track at times. 

The walk was just magic, with huge tree-ferns, and smaller fern under. Rocks covered in mosses and ferns nestled around creeks and soaks coming in. The falls themselves had plenty of water coming over, and were really worthwhile. The only downside was 3 leeches which decided that I obviously have superior blood! 

On the way to Gladstone there is the Blue Lake with vivid light blue water, which initially looked inviting until you read the information sign – the colour is the reflection from the sky, caused by the white kaolin clay beneath, but the water has a high acidity, and is contaminated with aluminium. 

We reached Mount William National Park, on the North-East corner of Tassie, and were initially not particularly impressed. There is a small fishing settlement, Musselroe, at the top, but we headed south to one of the campsites at Stumpys Bay. The wind was fairly howling, and it was quite cool. Darryl went for a walk on the beach. As darkness fell, the wind quietened a little. This campsite had a very quiet and friendly wallaby visiting.

Week of Monday 24 November 2008 - Beechworth - Bendigo - Ballarat - Great Ocean Road

Monday 24 November – Beechworth was our first destination, and we walked the town, looking at the historic buildings, including the goal in which Ned Kelly, and his mother, had been held. 

The sandstone buildings were quite lovely, but I guess the Kelly's wouldn’t have agreed! We had a snack from the famous ‘Beechworth Bakery’ for morning tea and headed on to Wangaratta. I was looking for Drover, Banks and O’Brien here at the cemetery, (one of the neatest we have seen), and the staff were wonderful, finding all the information and even driving me to the site of the headstone for the O’Brien family.

 Further along the highway we stopped at Violet Town, where I have lived in the early ‘60’s, but unfortunately the house had recently been demolished and the church (Methodist) relocated. I took photos, so will have to talk to my parents before I can identify which it was. We then had a reasonably long drive through the dusty, straight roads of central Victoria to Bendigo, and booked into a caravan park for the night. This was exceptionally clean and pleasant.

Tuesday 25 November – First stop was a visit to Darryl's cousin, Kerrie (on the Trembath side), and we chatted for quite a while, catching up with all her family news, before heading into central Bendigo where we

checked out the historical buildings in the centre of town, admired the leafy green park, and got a bird's eye view of the city from the top of the Poppet-head which has been set up as a lookout. We drove towards Ballarat, but couldn't find the National Park turnoff at Creswick, so ended up going right into Ballarat to get directions from the tourist info. We arrived at a magical little campsite, in Wright's Gully which has a little flowing creek, and a peaceful atmosphere. We went for little walks both up and down the creek where there was ample evidence of gold fossicking.

Wednesday 26 November – It was only a short drive back north through the forest to get to the little township of Creswick, and then less than 20k back to Ballarat. We had a lovely few hours with Margaret, (a cousin on Darryl's Wright side), and her son James, who has just finished Uni. Margaret has done a wonderful job of all the research on the Wright and O'Connell branches. At one stage we took a side tour and found a huge castle! What a surprise! We drove closer to get photos, and found it was called Kryal Castle,and is used to hold medieval tournaments.  We then headed to Macedon – I was initially hoping to visit Hanging Rock, but they charge $10, and I really didn't want to see it that badly!  We did a drive through and then stopped for the night.

Thursday 27 November – We drove back up Mount Macedon, and went on most of t

he walks. From the Camel's Hump we could see Hanging Rock. We checked out the Memorial Cross, commemorating those lost in WWI, and on one walk found a huge wombat hole. The wombat had marked his trail by leaving a 'deposit' on every rock sticking up on the path. There was also the very interesting geodectic stone cairn, and a small waterfall. The road down as a bit scary, being one lane wide with a dotted line down the centre! 

We shopped, had lunch, and went to the library in Gisbourne, before driving to Gisbourne South in the afternoon to catch up with my cousin Lynnette, (on the Smith side), and her husband John. We had a lovely chat about family history, before a tasty BBQ and played a new game, to us, a card board game called 'Sequence' (which was quite addictive and enjoyable).

Friday 28 November – We were heading for 'The Great Ocean Road', but got to Bacchus Marsh, and realised the Werribee Gorge, (a destination on both our lists), was

near, so decided to go. This was highly recommended on a few internet sites, but when we first pulled up we were extremely dubious, as it just looked terrible. Despite our misgivings, we walked up the gorge. Although not hugely spectacular, it was interesting, especially as we were following an old aqueduct, and the rock formations were fascinating. A walk to the Western Lookout was disappointing for not being a lookout of the gorge, and the country is very dry (a couple of elderly bushwalkers told us it was in the 12th year of drought). We drove through the Brisbane Ranges, but did not stop – here was also very dry. We moseyed our way south-west via Meredith, Cressy, Camperdown and Cobden, and found a quiet little spot in a State Forest near Timboon to stop for the night, (so still didn't make it the the Road!).

Saturday 29 November – At Port Campbell we finally had our first glimpse of the Great Southern Ocean. We started east along The Great Ocean Road, stopping to check out Loch Ard Gorge (read the story of the shipwreck here), and the twelve Apostles. 

The road down to Cape Otway Lighthouse had plenty of Koalas, and most seemed to be mothers with year-old babies. Along the road we stopped to help a young Brazilian couple who had a flat tyre on their hire-car. They had never changed a tyre before and didn’t know where to start. It turned out they were on their honeymoon, and celebrating two weeks of marriage! Apollo Bay boasts of being paradise, and was certainly a lovely spot, but showers and wind made us decide to head up a winding road, through tall eucalypts and massive tree-ferns towards a little town called Beech Forest to camp at falls called Beaucamp. It was freezing cold so we went to bed at 8.30pm and didn't get up till 8 in the morning.

Sunday 30 November – We walked down to the falls, and then drove to the next falls Hopetoun Falls, which were wonderful – the best we have seen. 

We took a look at the township of Beech Forest before going north to Stevenson Falls, Barwon Reservoir, Forrest, and Lake Elizabeth. 

We arrived in Lorne, back on the coast to discover...oh joy of joys...that it was schoolies! The van park assured us that none were in our camp, but there were plenty at nearby backpackers, and in houses. 

We expected a long night of drunken yahooing, but luckily it rained, which soon dampened their spirits! Dozens of wood-ducks came around looking for scraps, but we refused, as we did't want the messy deposits they leave in return. Before the sun went down we rode our bikes along the foreshore, down the pier, and for a few km along The Great Ocean Road. Lorne seems like a very nice place.